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some input i have no clue

wildky2010-08-11 08:12:30 +0000 #1
ok so i put my black secondary in last sunday and couldnt get the almond primary to work right so a few mins ago i went back to work on in and when i get it put in and put back together and test drive it i get a huge stall then it will go when i let off it stalls again its not much diffrence between the stock and almond spring it shouldnt change the stall that much should it? i litarly have to rev the engine to get it to grab the clutch
Polaris4252010-08-11 08:16:26 +0000 #2
There should be a little stall but not a whole lot. How tight did you tighten the bolts around the clutch plate? And did you torque the main clutch bolt back to 69 ft-lbs?
wildky2010-08-11 08:33:54 +0000 #3
the plate bolts are a lil bit more than snug but by no means over tight i wouldnt think and its close to 69ft torque wrinch only goes front wards so i got the fell for it and reversed
wildky2010-08-11 09:22:40 +0000 #4
YouTube- 0703001820.3g2: Video From YouTube:(link)


here is a vid not great and im stopping it
nmkawierider2010-08-11 09:08:16 +0000 #5
Well..for the almond..which is stouter then the maroon...right, that looks to be about 600 RPMs off idle. Seems about right. Maroon's about 400

What do you guys think?
bayou_boy_222010-08-11 09:00:30 +0000 #6
I am running the almond primary in my 750 and dont find it to have that much stall. this is in a 2009 Kawasaki Prairie 360 right. maybe the weights are different than the bigger quads and the springs do different things to it. (different engagements)
bigblackbrute2010-08-11 10:55:40 +0000 #7
i have the almond in my 09 750 and i have hardly and stall and definately nt that much bt like said above maybe the 360 has a different clutch setup jus dosent look rite to me.
jrfonte2010-08-11 10:29:00 +0000 #8
ive got an 10 ' with a maroon primary in it and i definitly noticed the stall it reves up a few more hundred rpm before it engages usually the little kebc thing makes a noise and it starts to move.

just put a maroon in my buddies 650sra and it seems like its got more stall to it then mine does.
nmkawierider2010-08-11 11:57:45 +0000 #9
Remember too that stall is caused by two things. 1. The RPMs have to increase enough for the flywaights to overcome the spring resistance and move the shieve and 2. the distance the sheive has to move to take the slack out of the belt and actualy be able to apply pressure on the belt. So...the more deflection you have, the more stall you will have. For Brutes, 22-27 mms is the range to stay in but even at 25 you can feel the stall difference between it and 22. I once had a belt stretch to 33 and it felt like I had a red primary. Knew it was time to reset then.
wildky2010-08-11 08:47:55 +0000 #10
the belt didnt seem to change from stock to almond when i put it on when i put wieght on the belt with the stall will it mess anything up? should i put stock back on there
Polaris4252010-08-11 13:19:59 +0000 #11
Ok on the torque note, gonna need to get one that works both ways, so you can be sure your not over or under torquing. You can get one form harbor freight for like $20 when they are nto on sale. $12 when they are on sale

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